Monthly Archives: July 2015

Analyzing Your Coloring

To ensure foundation looks natural you need to choose a shade that closely resembles your own coloring. Although we all know what color hair we have, we are sometimes surprisingly ignorant about the color of our skin, and choose a foundation just because we like the look of it. Nobody’s skin is exactly the same as anyone else’s, but we do all fit into distinct groups of color tones: yellow – ivory complexions without much redness; orange – a mixture of red and yellow; and red – pinkish skin tones without much yellow. Compare your clean skin with the examples shown below to determine which color group you fall into and whether you are pale, medium or dark-toned. Never choose a foundation shade that is outside your own color group, although you can go for a shade lighter or darker depending on the time of year and the effect you want to achieve.

Matching Foundation
When choosing a foundation, always lest the color by rubbing a small amount onto a patch of clean skin along your jawline (but not on the wrist, neck, or cheeks as the skin here is a different shade and texture from the rest of your face). Testing foundation along the jawline will also ensure that you do not create a “tidemark” effect between the foundation on your face and the bare skin on your neck. If possible, go out of the store into natural daylight and use a hand mirror to examine the color of the sample foundation; artificial store lighting can alter colors quite dramatically. You should also try to give the foundation time to settle (preferably a Tew minutes) as some can noticeably change color, particularly on oily skin. The right shade of foundation will “blend” onto your skin, while smoothing out uneven tones and giving you a near-perfect complexion.

If you want to “lift” your skin lone, wear a foundation that has slightly more pink than your natural shade.

Yellow Tones
A very pale, yellow-based complexion with no hint of redness. An ivory-colored foundation will give a polished, natural-looking finish.
A deeper-toned yellow complexion can be given natural coverage with a soft beige foundation that has more than a hint of yellow.

Orange Tones
A pale, orange-toned coloring with a scattering of golden freckles. An orangey beige foundation with more yellow than red tones works best.
A medium-toned orange coloring with slight redness on the cheeks. The right shade of foundation will have the same balanced mixture of red and yellow.

Orange Tones
A deeper toned golden shade with plenty of free hies. This coloring needs a foundation with more red than yellow.
This type of dark shin has definite golden undertones. For natural coverage, it needs a foundation that reflects both its darkness and its clear hints of orange.

Red Tones
A paletoned pink complexion with redness showing particularly on the checks. A soft pink foundation will give a light, warm finish.
A deeper-toned pink complexion, also with a flush on the cheeks. Pinky beige foundation will suit this darker shade.

Analyzing Your Face Shape

To use makeup effectively, you need to be aware of the exact shape of your face. Unfortunately, few of us are blessed with the perfect oval and instead fall into the categories of square, heart, round, or long, as well as oblong or triangle, and some of us may be mixtures of these shapes. To analyze your face shape, pull your hair back from your forehead so you can get an overall picture and examine your bone structure carefully in a mirror. Look at your cheekbones, the shape of your jawline and forehead, and the fullness of your cheeks. Pick out your key features and then compare your analysis with the five different face shapes shown here. Once you are aware of the true shape of your face, you can learn how to apply foundation and blusher to create more of an oval outline. If you think that your face is a mixture of different shapes, take the key features you can recognize and correct them accordingly.

Basic Face Shapes

Square
This shape is easily identified by its solid bone structure and square jawline. The forehead is wide and angled, while the cheekbones tend to be flat and unnoticeable. Cheeks often look plump.

Heart
This face is marked by being broad at the top and narrow at the bottom. It can appear long, too. and the chin pointed and prominent. Cheekbones may be high, but often do not show because of the width of the face.

Round
Here, the forehead, cheeks, and chin practically form a circle, which can make features look flat and uninteresting. The cheeks are often plump and full, obscuring the cheekbones.

Long
This shape can have cither a long forehead or a long chin; features may look drawn and rather raw-boned, creating a tired effect. Cheekbones lack lift becausc of the length of the face.

Oval
The oval face shape has high, sculpted cheekbones with a softly curved jawline that finishes in a delicate chin. The length of the forehead balances the lower part of the face and features look even and neat.

Your Skin Type

The first, most important step you can take toward caring for your skin properly is to choose the right cleansing products for your particular skin type. The skin on your face is under constant attack from both inside and out, with elements such as the sun and wind causing wrinkles to develop prematurely, and poor diet leading to acne and oiliness. Factors such as stress, pollution, and the changing seasons can also take their toll, making skin look dull, flaky, and lifeless. To combat these enemies, skin needs to be well cared for throughout your life. Moreover, as cleansers, toners, and moisturizers become increasingly sophisticated, it is especially important to use the right one for your skin type. Examine your skin first thing in the morning, then use the chart below to assess which type you are and discover which kinds of products to use and which to avoid.

The Skin’s Structure
The skin is the body’s largest organ and its main function is to provide a protective covering, although it also regulates body temperature and registers touch, pressure, and pain. It is made up of thousands of components, including sweat glands, oil-producing (sebaceous) glands, blood vessels, nerve endings, hair follicles, collagen fibers, fat cells, and sweat pores. The visible skin on the surface of the body is only a small part of this complex organ. Skin has three layers: the epidermis (the top outer layer), the dermis (true skin), and the hypodcrmis (the bottom layer).

The epidermis is the body’s waterproof covering and consists of dead and dying cells that are constantly being replaced by new skin cells formed in the dermis.
The dermis is situated underneath the epidermis and contains most of the skin’s living structures, such as blood vessels, nerve endings, and sebaceous and sweat glands. It also includes collagen fibers, which give the skin strength and resilience.
The hypodcrmis is the deepest layer. It is composed mainly offat cells, which cushion the blood, lymph, and nervous systems, and help preserve body heat.

Normal skin

Looks: Clear with an even texture.
Feels: Soft and smooth.
Problems: Pimples may occasionally break out, particularly around the chin and nose; dry patches can develop if skin is not cleansed and moisturized. Use a creamy liquid or cream cleanser, a water-soluble cleanser or gentle facial soap. Use a loner with or without alcohol, rosewatcr or a still mineral water spray.
Use a light cream or lotion, preferably with an added sunscreen.
Tip: Normal skin needs just as much attention as dry, oily, or sensitive skin, especially if exposed to extremes of temperature.
Caution: Be careful not to use products that have a tendency to dry out the skin, such as toners with a high alcohol content.

Dry skin

Looks: “Thin” or papery with fine pores, and is prone to broken veins on the cheeks.
Feels: Tight after cleansing, and can react by becoming red and blotchy.
Problems: Lacks moisture because skin does not produce enough sebum, the skin’s lubricating oil. Develops lines more easily than other skin types.
Use a cream cleanser, a very rich liquid cleanser, or a moisturizing, nonperfumed soap, but rinse off thoroughly. Use a mild alcohol-free toner, rosewatcr, or cool water.
Use an enriching, protective cream formula, preferably with an added sunscreen.
Tip: Pay particular attention to moisturizing, especially the delicate skin around your eyes. Caution: Check labels to make sure you do not use any products that contain alcohol.

Oily or combination skin

Looks: Shiny and greasy; combination skin has only patches of oilincss, particularly around the nose, chin, and forehead.
Feels: Uneven and rough.
Problems: Prone to pimples, blackheads, and enlarged pores; combination skin may have patches of dryness on the cheeks, as well as acne.
Use a light lotion or a milk cleanser; treat severe skin eruptions with a medicated liquid cleanser.
Use an alcohol-based toner, but avoid those that contain simple alcohols such as ethanol, methanol, and isopropyl – these can be harsh and dry out the skin more.
Use a light, non-oily formula, preferably with an added sunscreen; should also be noncomcdogcnic (it won’t block pores).
Tips: Moisturize the neck and cheeks thoroughly as these areas can become quite dry; treat pimples with a cleansing stick.
Cautions: Do not be templed to use harsh cleansers or toners as these will strip away natural oils. Never pick at blackheads or pimples; consult your doctor if acne develops.

Sensitive skin

Looks: Clear, but easily becomes red and blotchy. Feels: Hot, burning, or stinging when irritated. Problems: Reacts when it comes into contact with an allergen or an irritant, either externally or internally; can develop swellings, bumps under the skin, and flakiness.
Use a hypoallcrgenic clcanser that is free of possible irritants or allergic substances. Avoid using soap, which can strip away the skin’s protective layer and so make it more sensitive.
Use a hypoallergenic or alcohol-free toner.
Use a hypoallergenic protective cream, preferably with an added sunscreen.
Tip: Watch for hypoallergenic cosmetic and sun-care products, too.
Caution: Never use new products without testing them first and waiting 24 hours to see if a reaction develops.

Makeup Spring Bride

A romantic fairy-tale style for those „ special occasions when you have to look your very best. The secret is a makeup style that is beautiful and bewitching, but never heavy or harsh. Skin looks natural and fresh with just the lightest touch of a pale foundation and a dusting of blusher, while eyes are clear and captivating.

The strong mahogany color of the lips strikes an unusual note and introduces a more grown-up edge. Tightly curled locks frame the whole face and help enhance the pre-Raphaelite effect.

♦    Do not be tempted to wear too much mascara; this would make the eyes look too heavy and dark for the fresh, romantic mood.

♦    Tty painting nails with green polish to enhance the look of the accessories.

♦    Choosing the right accessories is very important. Keep them as
natural and unobtrusive as possible but in keeping with the fairy-tale princess style. Fresh flowers and greenery look great woven into textured hair.

♦ To achieve this hair style, curl hair tightly all over and then brush through, separating curls out slightly. Alternatively, put hair up in a loose bun with gentle tendrils hanging down.

1 Moisturize and apply a very pale cake foundation to the face and neck.
2    Brush eyebrows into shape and gently fill in any gaps with a brown eyeshadow.
3 Cover the eyelid with a light green eyeshadow. Use a coral eyeshadow along the socket line and blend up to the brow. Brush a dark green shadow from the center of the lid to the outer corner. Use the dark green shadow to line the top and bottom lashes.
4 Curl the eyelashes if necessary. Brush lashes with black mascara but be careful not to apply loo much.
5 Dust the cheekbones lightly with a dark orange blusher and blend well.
6 Line lips with a mahogany lip liner. Fill in with a matching lipstick and finish off with k a clear-effect lip gloss.

Makeup Active Aqua

This vibrant, waterproof style is designed for long, hot summer  days when you want to spend as much time as possible outdoors and be completely confident that your makeup is not running or smudging. The eye area is brightened and enlarged with a specially formulated eye foundation instead of eyeshadows, and lashes are gently defined with a light coating of waterproof mascara. A hint of cream blusher and strong orange lips add a glamorous touch to an essentially sporty look.

♦    Before using a waterproof mascara, always check that you have a suitable remover for it.

♦    Paint nails in a strong color that either matches or balances the vibrant tone of the lipstick, such as the orange lips and red nails shoivn here.

♦    This is a relaxed daytime effect that suits activewear rather than anythingformal or frilly. Minimize jewelry and accessories; they are not in keeping with this style.

♦    This type of makeup works well with a sharply cut hair style such as a well-defined boy-cut – avoid anything that might look overstyled. Keep long hair out of the way in a high ponytail.

1 Moisturize and apply a natural-colored cake foundation.

2 Use a specially formulated eye foundation all over the eye area to even out the skin tone.

3 Brush eyebrows into shape and fill in any gaps with a brown eyebrow pencil.

4 Curl eyelashes if necessary and lightly coat top and bottom lashes with waterproof black mascara.

5 Gently blend an orange cream blusher in circles onto the cheekbones.

6 Line lips with a dark orange lip liner and fill in with an orange lip pencil or lip color.